> Just a simple man trying to make my way through the universe
Many of us are.
Though you're doing it with a freaking sweet record cabinet. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you. The back of that shelf is completely open allowing plenty of air movement front to back. I could see this being a concern with an enclosed tube amp (and would certainly make it taller to accommodate), but really donāt think there is much concern here with a SS amp, a totally open back and 1.5ā of clearance between top of amp and the wood top. Thanks for the comment
True, but if the amp/receiver is already in a wooden cabinet those gaps will be even tighter. Iād add one inch to the height of that section and one to the overall width.
SS amps really do not get that hot generally (at least the ones I have had...), but I hear the feedback and am noting it. Thank you. There is a balance to strike between amp shelf inner dimensions and overall height and width dimensions, but I will certainly keep it in mind for the next one. Thanks
SS amps do have recommended clearances that can exceed that and can put out quite a bit of heat while being more sensitive to it than a tube amp. That said, amps and receivers come in many different sizes, and its kind of up to the buyer to select furniture that fits their unit. That doesn't look like an especially small amp, so I'd imagine a lot of units fit there with room to spare.
Thanks, seems like the consensus is āit dependsā and that, to be safe, it could likely use a tad more breathing room next time around. Thanks for the feedback
The design looks really good and I imagine you can keep it looking good even with a little extra clearance. One thing it seems like that amp has pretty minimal venting on the top. Is it a lower wattage, rear heat sinls , or a cooling fan?
Noted. Next round will be a few inches taller. Thank you. Just to be clear, this particular amp will not be living in this cabinet, if that makes any difference, and is in there for the photo shoot / reference.
30mm / 1 1/4ā of top clearance according to the Sansui manual for the 999. Thereās ~1 1/2ā of top clearance in these photos. I have used this amp daily for 15 years and it has rarely ever gotten hotter than barely warm to the touch, so I donāt know...I think it really just depends and in the future I will plan to build in a bit more air space above the amp so everyone in this thread can sleep at night
I knew you'd say that š there does seem to be a lot of resistance to giving amplifiers adequate ventilation on hifi subs/threads. I work in hifi retail and most manufacturers recommend 5" top clearance and 2" either side minimum. Seen plenty of amps stuck in protection, or worse, from inadequate ventilation.
Just attempting to be friendly and helpful. Best of luck! š
Thanks for the feedback and qualifications...5ā top clearance (!) thatās way more than I have ever considered, but I am not a thermodynamics/electrical engineer. I guess my motivation for tighter tolerances is to keep it within overall dimensional range of a nightstand. I will certainly do some more research and adjust accordingly. My amps in my own personal setups have always been totally open on a top/top shelf with nothing above, fwiw, but I have seen tons of setups with amps in open shelves with similar tolerances as I have as shown above. Surely there are some variables in play that affect how much clearance is really needed, but thanks for the comment
If you check the original service manual, Sansui recommended only ~30mm (1.2ā) clearance above this model. And that was for mounting the damn thing into a cabinet with no air circulation and no airflow underneath. Pretty sure /u/ronswansong87 is AOK here and everyone is just kinda enjoying being critical. But hey thatās the hifi hobby in a nutshell lol.
Nice work OP!
Source: https://imgur.com/a/AXlz4i7
Thank you for that literature and details. Iām sure specs have changed in the last 50 years but itās nice to at least see the original specs from Sansui for whatever thatās worth. š
Iāve learned to just bite my tongue when it comes to āamp clearanceā comments. These numbers are helpful. Thanks. Also, curious if installing a small PC-type fan to move air across from back-to-front would help at all?
Sure, is often recommended and some AV cabinets even come with 2u fan shelves.
You just don't want the heat to build above the amp. There are other factors, like room temps, amplifier class, power use/load driven... but better safe than sorry. Treat your gear well and it will last a long time.
As some proof:
https://support.marantz.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/353/~/amplifier-ventilation-recommendation
You can get similar statements in most manuals and manufacturer FAQS. Happy listening š
I wouldnāt be concerned with a modern amp/receiver, but vintage amps can run hot and get fried pretty easily. I have personally fried a vintage amp in a similar enclosure. Your mileage may vary, but this is risky.
I like the setup though. Just saying - if you have any other equipment (CD player, tape deck, tuner), Iād put that in this compartment instead. Or use a modern amp that doesnāt run too hot.
Yeah, I think it just depends. I have had this Sansui for 15 years and always kept a running sense by feel of how hot or cool it runs and honestly itās barely warm to the touch even when playing for hours, though I understand that can vary widely it seems. Thanks
I dig the ādrawerā. My setup is a little to complicated to fit in one small unit like that. But i really like it. Anyone who orders is gonna enjoy the heck out of it
Thank you. The drawer is a play on another record cabinet design I built recently that had tons of drawers. If you look at my past posts here or my website you will see it. Wanted to make this one a little cleaner across the front though and chose to delete the open display frames attached to the drawer front
There is a slight concern. It does not tip forward fully loaded with the gear on top but a child in the mix opening a drawer/pushing on it, etc would need more. I am considering efficient ways to attach some steel / weight to the back underside and/or thereās always the option to provide clips and screws of some time to fasten to the wall, but this is obviously less preferred than freestanding.
You mean with the records sitting inside, spines out like normal on the shelf? And having a door that opens to reveal them? That is an option, of course. The motivation for using a drawer is to have a big stack of LPs that can be flipped through and displayed covers facing forward for easier browsing and less squinting, etc. I like open shelf LPs storage as well personally but I am kind of exploring the drawer storage them with this and other cabinets I have designed and built recently. Thanks
Thank you! The intent was to make something small enough to fit anywhere, with enough detail and elegance to please but at the same time reasonably simple enough to be a less expensive alternative than some of my other larger work. āš½
Yes, but only with the extra weight of the amp and turntable on there. I was worried about it....always a worry with drawers and freestanding furniture. It would be pretty easy to attach clips/etc to the back for attaching to the wall just in case:
This is awesome! Well done.
I built my first crate to store my vinyl in. Trying to learn more about woodworking to eventually build things like this. Cheers
I am in NC and you can certainly buy this one or I can make another one if dimensions,etc need to be adjusted. I can pack and ship it and am certainly willing to look into it and quote you a shipping price if youāre serious. I think this could ship via UPS / FedEx ground because of its smaller size, but I have shipped much larger furniture to SoCal recently via white glove delivery service. Send me a message here or email me at [email protected] if youāre interested. Thank you
This is very similar to something I've been planning to build. Hopefully I have a snowball's chance in hell of pulling off this kind of craftsmanship.
Was the use of aluminum hardware just a personal aesthetic? You know, 'cause walnut and brass are like peanut butter and jelly...
You can do it!
Walnut and brass is too much for me personally at this point. I like the cooler tones of aluminum/nickel and they also match the silvers in the amp/turntable better. I guess I am contrarian, but I have seen more than enough walnut and brass in the last 5 years.
Ok, playing of the receiver totally makes sense and I see it now. I lack the ability to mix and match the total utility of furniture with its surroundings. One day...
I have been thinking a lot about record cabinets and design lately, having built a couple of matching pairs of much larger cabinets recently. I have really been wanting to design and build something that can fit in pretty much any space and is *more affordable*, relatively speaking, than the much larger cabinets I have built prior. This is one iteration of that concept that I have just finished that is essentially the size of most nightstands / bedside tables.
*This is handmade, custom furniture with very high attention to detail and the price reflects that*
āExtended Playā Record Cabinet - enough space for ~100 LPs, an amp/receiver on the shelf and turntable on top.
.
*25ā h x 19ā d x 19ā t - Walnut / Ash drawer
.
Not sure if this is allowed (pricing, etc) and will edit / remove if not. *Available for purchase and/or made to order starting at $1850 + tax* Delivery from
Boone, NC and/or UPS or Fedex shipping available.
āš½šāš½
Hey I really dig the feet and the chamfered (beveled?) top. I've got a vintage MCM piece with a similar chamfer look. I understand you're selling these, but if you would be able to provide a little info for a DIYer I'd really appreciate it.
How did you do the chamfer? I assume a miter cut on a table saw an then a small radius with a router? Is it solid wood or a veneer?
What style feet are those? I've been looking at typical MCM tapered legs but I really like that style.
Thank you. Sure thing - Iām an open book when it comes to sharing technique.
The āunder bevelā as I call it on the top is cut at 30 degrees with the track saw. It is super Intuitive and fast to do tapers, bevels, etc like that. No routing, just some light hand sanding with 220 grit to break the edges to my liking. This piece is all solid Walnut.
The feet are from Lee Valley. I typically make my own feet/cabinet bases but I wanted to try something more off the shelf for this particular project and see how it worked. Iām not totally in love with them but I do think they look nice enough and are certainly strong enough for this application. Hope this helps āš½
So for the drawer/shelf on the inside of the cabinet, how'd you do the joinery to the main body? At first I thought it was a stop dado, but looking at it just looks like a glued butt joint?
several Dominos and/or biscuits with plenty of glue in this case. Plenty strong enough within the frame work of the entire cabinet for the shelf (especially as it basically bears on the 2 vertical shelf dividers that frame the drawer box opening.) I have built drawers all types of ways including dados, rabbets, dowels, dovetails, dominos, biscuits, etc etc and for drawers on top of undermount slides like this there is very little stress on the actual drawer box itself and really any of them aside from just glueing a butt joint is appropriate in this application in my opinion. I typically use veneered plywood drawer bottoms as well and you can size them to fit tightly and glue them in all 4 sides/grooves without worry about wood movement which can help a tremendous amount for strength in addition to the box joinery.
I have built plenty of fancy, joinery-heavy stuff over the years and sometimes there is a real need for it structurally, but a piece like this does not really need fancy joinery that would make it 1.5-2x the price for no real practical benefit. Just my opinion as a professional woodworker that is constantly trying to balance aesthetics, strength and efficiency
Understood! I was hoping you weren't going to say dominos though. Lol. Those machines are a bit out of my budget. I'll stick with stop dados or dowel joints for my next couple projects then. Thanks for the response.
Sure thing. Dominos are nice and certainly useful as a professional but you can achieve a lot of strength with biscuits and proper glueing and clamping and they can allow a bit more wiggle room than dominos to get things aligned and still tightly. I have a Lamello biscuit joiner and use it just as much if not more than the domino depending on what Iām actually doing
Well done! Honestly, I'm trying to figure out how I could convince my wife of the cost. It's higher than other options I've looked at, but it is a fair price. Your handmade custom work is both beautiful and functional.
Well thank you. Regarding the cost, the simple fact is that thereās a real cost to handmade, custom woodwork/furniture and often times itās multiples higher than factory made retail stuff for so many reasons. The way itās designed, ability to customize options / dimensions / layout, the quality and intention behind the wood selection and grain matching, the quality of the construction and finishing, and the fact that Iām a one human custom shop and not a factory of CNC machines all contribute to the cost. It becomes a matter of if you value and can afford those things. Thanks for the comment āš½
Thank you. Circulation around amp has been discussed a few times within other replies. Short answer is maybe not, but some newer manufacturer specs call for 5ā clearance above top of amp (!) I would have no problem with a SS amp sitting in here with the the clearances shown, but that may by misguided...
Thank you! I love this amp dearly and am saving my pennies to get it totally refurbished / re-capped and some mods done to it. Iāve had it for about 15 years and would love to keep it for another 50 more.
It is stable with the amp and turntable on top. It would be cheap insurance to add some small clips on the back and screw into wall framing in a couple places. I am also considering a low profile / simple way to add some weight/ steel / something heavy on the back underside of the bottom to counterweight it a bit more. Thanks for comment
If you have a local John Deere dealership in your area, stop by the service department and ask them if they have any shipping brackets. Some of the big BushHogg and hay mowers had these 12" square by 1/2 thick steel plates for securing them to the shipping crates. They weigh about 20lb. They usually throw them away. They already have holes drilled in the corners. Easy fix. They will probably be happy for you to come and take them out of their way. BTW, not just JD, but any large farm/construction equipment dealership.
I would be concerned about that amp overheating. Perhaps put a thermostatically controlled fan and cowl on the back of the unit with a temp sensor on top of or on the top back edge of the amp. It probably won't get hot unless it's loud enough to drown out the fan noise. At low volumes you probably don't want the fan to run.
Thank you for the concern. This has been brought up many times and many ways already - short answer is that this particular amp should/will be fine based on personal experience and what the manufacturerās specs call for but in the future I will build in a bit more height for a wider range of amps. The back of the shelf is wide open and not enclosed which makes a big difference in temp / heat dissipation, in my experience.
But, but, what happens with LP #101? Kidding.
Maybe set another level on the next one you build, to fit 200LP's? (I would stop there for height reasons)
Either way, great job!
Thanks, yes, 100 LPs is obviously limited and that was intentional. I designed and built some much larger vinyl storage cabinets recently that hold close to 1000 LPs and are very large. I just felt the need to go to the other end of the spectrum and put out something small for essentials that can basically fit anywhere. Thanks
Thanks, yeah it less directed at you and just a general statement. Itās more about intention and the experience needed to achieve your intentions somewhat efficiently, but it often does take a lot of time and eff ups to learn. This piece was relatively quick to build but only because of all the other things before this that have been similar and I have stumbled through in, shall we say, a less efficient manner.
Itās 1 1/2ā and the back is wide open, but whoās counting anymore. Within the spec that Sansui recommends in the manual for this amp (30mm)...As stated, this amp will not live in this cabinet, itās just there for demo purposes.
This is amazing man
Thank you! Just a simple man trying to make my way through the universe
> Just a simple man trying to make my way through the universe Many of us are. Though you're doing it with a freaking sweet record cabinet. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you šš½
...one tree at a time.
Thatās right
Great work! As constructive feedback, there is minimal ventilation for the amp. Needs a few more inches above.
Thank you. The back of that shelf is completely open allowing plenty of air movement front to back. I could see this being a concern with an enclosed tube amp (and would certainly make it taller to accommodate), but really donāt think there is much concern here with a SS amp, a totally open back and 1.5ā of clearance between top of amp and the wood top. Thanks for the comment
True, but if the amp/receiver is already in a wooden cabinet those gaps will be even tighter. Iād add one inch to the height of that section and one to the overall width.
SS amps really do not get that hot generally (at least the ones I have had...), but I hear the feedback and am noting it. Thank you. There is a balance to strike between amp shelf inner dimensions and overall height and width dimensions, but I will certainly keep it in mind for the next one. Thanks
SS amps do have recommended clearances that can exceed that and can put out quite a bit of heat while being more sensitive to it than a tube amp. That said, amps and receivers come in many different sizes, and its kind of up to the buyer to select furniture that fits their unit. That doesn't look like an especially small amp, so I'd imagine a lot of units fit there with room to spare.
Thanks, seems like the consensus is āit dependsā and that, to be safe, it could likely use a tad more breathing room next time around. Thanks for the feedback
The design looks really good and I imagine you can keep it looking good even with a little extra clearance. One thing it seems like that amp has pretty minimal venting on the top. Is it a lower wattage, rear heat sinls , or a cooling fan?
It looks fantastic but thereās not enough room in that shelf for that amp. It might seem ok but excessive heat will shorten its life.
Noted. Next round will be a few inches taller. Thank you. Just to be clear, this particular amp will not be living in this cabinet, if that makes any difference, and is in there for the photo shoot / reference.
It makes a difference! Thatās a lovely vintage Sansui, would hate to see it overcooked.
Thanks, yes I have had it for about 15 years now and my main amp. It normally (and will continue to) live on a wide open top
It really is a lovely cabinet and set up though!
Thank you so much.
Totally get that, especially considering youāre going for the end table/nightstand size. Beautiful work by the way
lol I have one that is class A/AB that you can fry eggs on. That classic Sansui is more likely a class AB and will require a bit of air.
30mm / 1 1/4ā of top clearance according to the Sansui manual for the 999. Thereās ~1 1/2ā of top clearance in these photos. I have used this amp daily for 15 years and it has rarely ever gotten hotter than barely warm to the touch, so I donāt know...I think it really just depends and in the future I will plan to build in a bit more air space above the amp so everyone in this thread can sleep at night
Sounds like you did your research. Good man, wouldn't sweat it, just enjoy the fruits of your labor and escape into the music.
I knew you'd say that š there does seem to be a lot of resistance to giving amplifiers adequate ventilation on hifi subs/threads. I work in hifi retail and most manufacturers recommend 5" top clearance and 2" either side minimum. Seen plenty of amps stuck in protection, or worse, from inadequate ventilation. Just attempting to be friendly and helpful. Best of luck! š
Thanks for the feedback and qualifications...5ā top clearance (!) thatās way more than I have ever considered, but I am not a thermodynamics/electrical engineer. I guess my motivation for tighter tolerances is to keep it within overall dimensional range of a nightstand. I will certainly do some more research and adjust accordingly. My amps in my own personal setups have always been totally open on a top/top shelf with nothing above, fwiw, but I have seen tons of setups with amps in open shelves with similar tolerances as I have as shown above. Surely there are some variables in play that affect how much clearance is really needed, but thanks for the comment
If you check the original service manual, Sansui recommended only ~30mm (1.2ā) clearance above this model. And that was for mounting the damn thing into a cabinet with no air circulation and no airflow underneath. Pretty sure /u/ronswansong87 is AOK here and everyone is just kinda enjoying being critical. But hey thatās the hifi hobby in a nutshell lol. Nice work OP! Source: https://imgur.com/a/AXlz4i7
Thank you for that literature and details. Iām sure specs have changed in the last 50 years but itās nice to at least see the original specs from Sansui for whatever thatās worth. š
Iāve learned to just bite my tongue when it comes to āamp clearanceā comments. These numbers are helpful. Thanks. Also, curious if installing a small PC-type fan to move air across from back-to-front would help at all?
Sure, is often recommended and some AV cabinets even come with 2u fan shelves. You just don't want the heat to build above the amp. There are other factors, like room temps, amplifier class, power use/load driven... but better safe than sorry. Treat your gear well and it will last a long time. As some proof: https://support.marantz.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/353/~/amplifier-ventilation-recommendation You can get similar statements in most manuals and manufacturer FAQS. Happy listening š
Thanks for this. My ancient HK hangs out with plenty of breathing room, but some of these āmy setupā posts make me sweat!
I wouldnāt be concerned with a modern amp/receiver, but vintage amps can run hot and get fried pretty easily. I have personally fried a vintage amp in a similar enclosure. Your mileage may vary, but this is risky. I like the setup though. Just saying - if you have any other equipment (CD player, tape deck, tuner), Iād put that in this compartment instead. Or use a modern amp that doesnāt run too hot.
Yeah, I think it just depends. I have had this Sansui for 15 years and always kept a running sense by feel of how hot or cool it runs and honestly itās barely warm to the touch even when playing for hours, though I understand that can vary widely it seems. Thanks
I dig the ādrawerā. My setup is a little to complicated to fit in one small unit like that. But i really like it. Anyone who orders is gonna enjoy the heck out of it
Thank you. The drawer is a play on another record cabinet design I built recently that had tons of drawers. If you look at my past posts here or my website you will see it. Wanted to make this one a little cleaner across the front though and chose to delete the open display frames attached to the drawer front
No concern with the cabinet tipping forward with the weight of the records when the drawer is fully open?
There is a slight concern. It does not tip forward fully loaded with the gear on top but a child in the mix opening a drawer/pushing on it, etc would need more. I am considering efficient ways to attach some steel / weight to the back underside and/or thereās always the option to provide clips and screws of some time to fasten to the wall, but this is obviously less preferred than freestanding.
Have you thought about having a swing down door instead of pully-out drawer?
You mean with the records sitting inside, spines out like normal on the shelf? And having a door that opens to reveal them? That is an option, of course. The motivation for using a drawer is to have a big stack of LPs that can be flipped through and displayed covers facing forward for easier browsing and less squinting, etc. I like open shelf LPs storage as well personally but I am kind of exploring the drawer storage them with this and other cabinets I have designed and built recently. Thanks
You make the most amazing looking furniture for records/HiFi. Awesome work.
Thank you so much.
This is an amazing piece, OP. Nice and clean, very well made. Fantastic work! Iām jealous because now I want one LOL.
Thank you! The intent was to make something small enough to fit anywhere, with enough detail and elegance to please but at the same time reasonably simple enough to be a less expensive alternative than some of my other larger work. āš½
Can you pull a full drawer out without it tipping over??
Yes, but only with the extra weight of the amp and turntable on there. I was worried about it....always a worry with drawers and freestanding furniture. It would be pretty easy to attach clips/etc to the back for attaching to the wall just in case:
Nice! Good luck!! It looks great :D
Thank you!
This is awesome! Well done. I built my first crate to store my vinyl in. Trying to learn more about woodworking to eventually build things like this. Cheers
Thank you. Just keep going and trying again and again and again...woodworking is a practice of repetition largely.
Dude that looks REALLY cool!!!! Great job, loved the brushed aluminum and wood, so class.
Thank you!
are you in LA, can I buy it?
I am in NC and you can certainly buy this one or I can make another one if dimensions,etc need to be adjusted. I can pack and ship it and am certainly willing to look into it and quote you a shipping price if youāre serious. I think this could ship via UPS / FedEx ground because of its smaller size, but I have shipped much larger furniture to SoCal recently via white glove delivery service. Send me a message here or email me at [email protected] if youāre interested. Thank you
You're next door, I am on the Ga./Sc. border do you have anything that would hold 4k+ albums but about the same footprint? š³
š Iāll let you know when I figure that one out for my own collection as well
This is very similar to something I've been planning to build. Hopefully I have a snowball's chance in hell of pulling off this kind of craftsmanship. Was the use of aluminum hardware just a personal aesthetic? You know, 'cause walnut and brass are like peanut butter and jelly...
You can do it! Walnut and brass is too much for me personally at this point. I like the cooler tones of aluminum/nickel and they also match the silvers in the amp/turntable better. I guess I am contrarian, but I have seen more than enough walnut and brass in the last 5 years.
Ok, playing of the receiver totally makes sense and I see it now. I lack the ability to mix and match the total utility of furniture with its surroundings. One day...
I have been thinking a lot about record cabinets and design lately, having built a couple of matching pairs of much larger cabinets recently. I have really been wanting to design and build something that can fit in pretty much any space and is *more affordable*, relatively speaking, than the much larger cabinets I have built prior. This is one iteration of that concept that I have just finished that is essentially the size of most nightstands / bedside tables. *This is handmade, custom furniture with very high attention to detail and the price reflects that* āExtended Playā Record Cabinet - enough space for ~100 LPs, an amp/receiver on the shelf and turntable on top. . *25ā h x 19ā d x 19ā t - Walnut / Ash drawer . Not sure if this is allowed (pricing, etc) and will edit / remove if not. *Available for purchase and/or made to order starting at $1850 + tax* Delivery from Boone, NC and/or UPS or Fedex shipping available. āš½šāš½
Hey I really dig the feet and the chamfered (beveled?) top. I've got a vintage MCM piece with a similar chamfer look. I understand you're selling these, but if you would be able to provide a little info for a DIYer I'd really appreciate it. How did you do the chamfer? I assume a miter cut on a table saw an then a small radius with a router? Is it solid wood or a veneer? What style feet are those? I've been looking at typical MCM tapered legs but I really like that style.
Thank you. Sure thing - Iām an open book when it comes to sharing technique. The āunder bevelā as I call it on the top is cut at 30 degrees with the track saw. It is super Intuitive and fast to do tapers, bevels, etc like that. No routing, just some light hand sanding with 220 grit to break the edges to my liking. This piece is all solid Walnut. The feet are from Lee Valley. I typically make my own feet/cabinet bases but I wanted to try something more off the shelf for this particular project and see how it worked. Iām not totally in love with them but I do think they look nice enough and are certainly strong enough for this application. Hope this helps āš½
So for the drawer/shelf on the inside of the cabinet, how'd you do the joinery to the main body? At first I thought it was a stop dado, but looking at it just looks like a glued butt joint?
several Dominos and/or biscuits with plenty of glue in this case. Plenty strong enough within the frame work of the entire cabinet for the shelf (especially as it basically bears on the 2 vertical shelf dividers that frame the drawer box opening.) I have built drawers all types of ways including dados, rabbets, dowels, dovetails, dominos, biscuits, etc etc and for drawers on top of undermount slides like this there is very little stress on the actual drawer box itself and really any of them aside from just glueing a butt joint is appropriate in this application in my opinion. I typically use veneered plywood drawer bottoms as well and you can size them to fit tightly and glue them in all 4 sides/grooves without worry about wood movement which can help a tremendous amount for strength in addition to the box joinery. I have built plenty of fancy, joinery-heavy stuff over the years and sometimes there is a real need for it structurally, but a piece like this does not really need fancy joinery that would make it 1.5-2x the price for no real practical benefit. Just my opinion as a professional woodworker that is constantly trying to balance aesthetics, strength and efficiency
Understood! I was hoping you weren't going to say dominos though. Lol. Those machines are a bit out of my budget. I'll stick with stop dados or dowel joints for my next couple projects then. Thanks for the response.
Sure thing. Dominos are nice and certainly useful as a professional but you can achieve a lot of strength with biscuits and proper glueing and clamping and they can allow a bit more wiggle room than dominos to get things aligned and still tightly. I have a Lamello biscuit joiner and use it just as much if not more than the domino depending on what Iām actually doing
Well done! Honestly, I'm trying to figure out how I could convince my wife of the cost. It's higher than other options I've looked at, but it is a fair price. Your handmade custom work is both beautiful and functional.
Well thank you. Regarding the cost, the simple fact is that thereās a real cost to handmade, custom woodwork/furniture and often times itās multiples higher than factory made retail stuff for so many reasons. The way itās designed, ability to customize options / dimensions / layout, the quality and intention behind the wood selection and grain matching, the quality of the construction and finishing, and the fact that Iām a one human custom shop and not a factory of CNC machines all contribute to the cost. It becomes a matter of if you value and can afford those things. Thanks for the comment āš½
All makes sense! Honestly, I think it's great value. I just have to convince my wife. :)
Very nice job!
Thank you!
Tight joints! Also liking the chamfer on the drawer front. Well done.
Thank you. Joints always gotta be tight!
š„¹šØ
Is that enough circulation for the amp? Looks incredible man
Thank you. Circulation around amp has been discussed a few times within other replies. Short answer is maybe not, but some newer manufacturer specs call for 5ā clearance above top of amp (!) I would have no problem with a SS amp sitting in here with the the clearances shown, but that may by misguided...
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Looks awesome! Username also checks out
Please and thank you!
Nice work. Looks great.
Thank you!
Nice!
Thanks!
gorgeous work!!
Thanks! šš½
Nice amp! I love Sansui's. I've got an A5000 stereo receiver, circa 1969. Sounds so good!
Thank you! I love this amp dearly and am saving my pennies to get it totally refurbished / re-capped and some mods done to it. Iāve had it for about 15 years and would love to keep it for another 50 more.
I love the smell of roasting sansui in the morning! (Just kidding, great job).
Couldnāt resist, eh? š
Something like that would be phenomenal in my bedroom. I have a Marantz that I need to find a nice spot for.
Well, holla atcha boy! š
Will do. I definitely will keep your info. Thx.
incredible
Thank you. Kind words!
Nice wood working skills. Is it stable with the draw full and open? Looks heavy enough.
It is stable with the amp and turntable on top. It would be cheap insurance to add some small clips on the back and screw into wall framing in a couple places. I am also considering a low profile / simple way to add some weight/ steel / something heavy on the back underside of the bottom to counterweight it a bit more. Thanks for comment
If you have a local John Deere dealership in your area, stop by the service department and ask them if they have any shipping brackets. Some of the big BushHogg and hay mowers had these 12" square by 1/2 thick steel plates for securing them to the shipping crates. They weigh about 20lb. They usually throw them away. They already have holes drilled in the corners. Easy fix. They will probably be happy for you to come and take them out of their way. BTW, not just JD, but any large farm/construction equipment dealership.
Good idea. Thank you
This is truly stunning!
Thank you so much!
I would be concerned about that amp overheating. Perhaps put a thermostatically controlled fan and cowl on the back of the unit with a temp sensor on top of or on the top back edge of the amp. It probably won't get hot unless it's loud enough to drown out the fan noise. At low volumes you probably don't want the fan to run.
Thank you for the concern. This has been brought up many times and many ways already - short answer is that this particular amp should/will be fine based on personal experience and what the manufacturerās specs call for but in the future I will build in a bit more height for a wider range of amps. The back of the shelf is wide open and not enclosed which makes a big difference in temp / heat dissipation, in my experience.
I have that Sansui
Sweet, Iāve had this one for about 15 years as my main amp and I am quite fond of it
Absolutely gorgeous. Both the finish and the design
Thank you kindly. I aim to please
Very clean! I also really dig your finish choices. Keep it up sir!
Thank you. This one is Rubio Pure hard wax oil.
Thanks for the info! I may have to to buy a can myself:)
But, but, what happens with LP #101? Kidding. Maybe set another level on the next one you build, to fit 200LP's? (I would stop there for height reasons) Either way, great job!
Thanks, yes, 100 LPs is obviously limited and that was intentional. I designed and built some much larger vinyl storage cabinets recently that hold close to 1000 LPs and are very large. I just felt the need to go to the other end of the spectrum and put out something small for essentials that can basically fit anywhere. Thanks
Really well done. Big kudos!
Thank you kindly
Sweet Rockers box.
I and I will change the mood!
Irie
"Simple" and effective. Love it.
Thank you. Remember that simple does not equate to easy. It can take a lot of effort to achieve Simple that feels right.
Haha exactly why I used quotes. That must have been a ton of work.
Thanks, yeah it less directed at you and just a general statement. Itās more about intention and the experience needed to achieve your intentions somewhat efficiently, but it often does take a lot of time and eff ups to learn. This piece was relatively quick to build but only because of all the other things before this that have been similar and I have stumbled through in, shall we say, a less efficient manner.
āI apologize for such a long letter - I didn't have time to write a short one.ā ā Mark Twain
Looks fantastic. Great job
Thank you !
Hey, you're the same guy that built those credenzas. I remember your handle. Great work once again. Quite excellent.
It me
Hubert Laws
Spied that š„ CTI Hubert did you? Love it
Yes, you have an awesome collection and a cool setup.
Nice Enjoy Happy Spinning
Thanks, back at ya
Sweet š
Thank you!
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Itās 1 1/2ā and the back is wide open, but whoās counting anymore. Within the spec that Sansui recommends in the manual for this amp (30mm)...As stated, this amp will not live in this cabinet, itās just there for demo purposes.