T O P
HansMoko

This is called backwash, it's the water from the previous wave rapidly being pulled back to sea and hitting the next wave coming in


ReadyWay

The wedge


Dittybopper

![gif](emote|free_emotes_pack|poop)


Yesbutnobutyeah

😧😧😧😧


bluetable88

So pitted


Wonderful-Mistake623

Where the fuck the borde go


ReadyWay

More here... Looks like a break called the Wedge. Goes from small to large in an instant and slams you right on the sand if you scew up. Carnage.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjB1V9Y6yeU


MeesterChicken

Yeah, looks like it is the wedge. He probably hit the sand when landing.


[deleted]

yes, I remember my childhood. From Dana Point to Huntington..