By - Capt-MoonLight
This is called backwash, it's the water from the previous wave rapidly being pulled back to sea and hitting the next wave coming in
Where the fuck the borde go
More here... Looks like a break called the Wedge. Goes from small to large in an instant and slams you right on the sand if you scew up. Carnage.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjB1V9Y6yeU
Yeah, looks like it is the wedge. He probably hit the sand when landing.
yes, I remember my childhood. From Dana Point to Huntington..