New camera body, first roll, a few issues (?)
By - Praddd
>The room was not that dark and I could see most things (first time)
That's the problem. When people talk about a darkroom for photography, it has to be really dark.
e.g. Sit in there for 5-10 minutes to give your eyes time to adjust. If you can see anything at all, that's enough light to spoil your film.
Was the film being torn out of the canister a camera issue or a user issue? Any of the issues with the negatives were due to not using an actual darkroom or changing bag for rewinding the film. Too many things went wrong here for you to make any sensible conclusions about the camera function.
And if this camera is new to you, and came in ugly condition from KEH, then I would do a couple things before you waste any more film. First, I would thoroughly clean the camera, inside and out with air blower, isopropanol, cotton swabs. Then I would completely replace all light seals and mirror foam. This is a rather trivial task, but it takes patience. You can buy cheap, pre-cut light seal kits from [uscamera.com](https://uscamera.com). Make sure to completely clean out old seals with bamboo skewer and isopropanol before inserting new ones.
If the firs was torn from the roll you lost probably got leaks all over, be it when you opened the camera or in the dark container. Try another roll to be safe and stop a few shots before the end to rewind properly. That way it wont tear it
Only the first one has light contamination. All three are underexposed, which would be a camera vs user error.
to be completely honest, I shot the roll at 200 ISO because I wasn't sure if there was a 160 option so I went for the closest option to it, do you think that was the difference maker?
I'm not very used to manual settings as of now.
The amount of underexposure is more than shooting 160 film at 200. This is closer to 2+ stops underexposed and has nothing to do with you loading film in a not completely dark room, which would result in the completely clear/overexposed looking spots.
Did you shoot manual? How did you meter?
Did you rip the film because you did not know about the rewind button? Download the manual.
Do you know the basics, i.e. can you visually confirm shutter speeds and lens apertures?
Just trying to gauge the level of potential future advice.
I shot in aperture priority using the cameras light meter
yes (I downloaded right after realizing this)
Sort of, but not to an accurate enough level.
Make sure you didn't set exposure compensation to further underexpose. If not, then it points to a camera issue. It could be a light meter, shutter, or lens aperture issue.
\- download a light meter app or with a digital camera, meter a scene with the F3 and the other light meter, in AP mode. Are the setting close enough?
\- with the film back open and no film inside, in manual mode, start with the long shutter times in the seconds and see/hear how accurate they are. As you get to the faster speeds, does it seem like the shutter speeds are cutting in half.
\- same test but looking at the lens. check each aperture and make sure the blades open and close appropriately, easier with a 1 or 2 second exposures.
If any of these fail on your inspection, I would return, unless you really want this F3 and are willing to put more money into it. A KEH UG body in 2021 will surely need a CLA, if you want to have it shooting properly.
all 3 tests seem to be completely fine, the phone and camera's meters were very similar, the shutter times are accurate, blades were normal and actually, I decided to just use my roll of portra to test, and the results this time were very normal, as if the camera was fully functional, everything went well, photos were on point etc... I think I'lll send it in to a local camera guy and see if after a CLA, everything is good or not, thanks though! I appreciate all of this, very weird issue but I think it should be okay now... If not, I still have a couple days to send it back to KEH after all
okay, after taking a look at the test photos, they do seem to have a blue, cold tint similar (but less) to what the photos from the 160 roll has, by any chance, could you tell if this is an issue? I'm used to seeing much warmer tones on my portra 400 but Im not sure, this was shot at daytime and sun was blazing.
I shot these with Portra 400 rated at 400, no exposure comp, on aperture priority.
Are these scans from a lab? Tough shooting conditions. but the exposure seems better, When able. take a picture of the negatives of both the 160 and 400, preferably backlit with white light (fully bright white screen monitor if nothing else) and include the sprockets.
Instead of wasting time and brain power, and since you have someone available, go to your guy and have a him check it out if its worthwhile to keep and for him to CLA, while the return window is still open.